In certain areas of Germany, the far-right movement is gaining traction, leading researchers to observe a growing boldness among supporters in openly expressing their views, often through subtle symbols rather than overt political gestures. At events for the Alternative for Germany (AfD) party, coded messages were detected on seemingly ordinary items like sneakers and T-shirts.
Academics have noted that iconic brands such as New Balance and Lonsdale are being repurposed as dog whistles for nationalist and Nazi ideologies, a significant trend in a country where the exhibition of Nazi symbols is legally restricted. Gideon Botsch, from the Emil Julius Gumbel Research Unit, pointed out the use of various signs linked to the far right, ranging from explicit neo-Nazi symbols to more ambiguous references.
For instance, New Balance sneakers are being co-opted, with the prominent “N” symbol interpreted as representing “nationalist” and “NB” suggesting “Nationale Bewegung” or “national movement.” Similarly, Lonsdale apparel has seen a resurgence among the far right due to its potential to spell out “NSDA” when worn in a specific manner, an allusion to Germany’s National Socialist Party.
The utilization of such covert symbols allows individuals to signal their affiliations without violating Germany’s laws against Nazi imagery, a tactic acknowledged by Sophie Scheuble from the Institute for Strategic Dialogue. This strategy has led to a rise in the adoption of insignias that are recognizable only to those familiar with their meanings, ensuring compliance with legal boundaries.
As Saxony-Anhalt’s intelligence service updated its guide on far-right symbols, it emphasized the prevalence of coded references over prosecutable symbols, indicating a strategic shift within extremist circles. While the appropriation of brands like New Balance and Lonsdale by the far right has raised concerns, the broader issue lies in the evolving political landscape where these expressions are gaining prominence.
The AfD, initially a marginal party, has expanded its influence since 2013 and is poised to secure a significant victory in an upcoming state election in Saxony-Anhalt, where it has been classified as a far-right extremist entity. This potential success marks a historic development, with the party potentially achieving an absolute majority in a German state for the first time post-World War II.
Experts highlight a growing overlap between Germany’s neo-Nazi factions and the populist right, with neo-Nazi members actively endorsing the AfD and promoting its agenda. While not everyone sporting brands like New Balance and Lonsdale is a neo-Nazi, the clothing choices at AfD events reflect a mix of ordinary supporters and individuals aligned with extremist ideologies.
The willingness to display these coded signals openly reflects a broader shift in societal norms, mirroring the increasing influence of the far right and the AfD. This trend signifies a perceived cultural shift that emboldens individuals to exhibit such symbols without fear of reprisal, reflecting a sense of empowerment among these groups.
Both New Balance and Lonsdale have distanced themselves from the far-right movement, with Lonsdale undertaking anti-racism initiatives to combat its historical association with neo-Nazi subcultures. However, the resurgence of far-right appropriation of these brands underscores the ongoing challenge faced by companies in safeguarding their image from extremist elements.
In contrast, brands like Thor Steinar, known for its use of Nordic and runic motifs, are viewed as clearer indicators of far-right affiliations due to their longstanding association with Germany’s extremist circles. Despite legal challenges in the past, the company has adapted its logo to avoid prohibited symbols, showcasing the complex interplay between fashion, politics, and extremism in contemporary Germany.